Through The Looking-Glass / Hg2 RESTAURANT REVIEW

Stepping into the sleek, streamlined environs of Canary Wharf is like entering a micro-city; a city of sharp, starched suits, glossy manes of hair and serious, sober expressions. To the uninitiated — or indeed, to a creative type — it can seem positively daunting. Brushing our fears aside for a night, Hg2 braved the Jubilee line and made our way up to the fourth floor of Canada Place to check out Plateau — owned by the ever-expanding D&D restaurant group.

Looking like something straight out of a sci-fi film, the interiors are futuristic chic at their starkest with the space divided into three distinct areas: a bar at the front; a casual grill in the middle; and a formal restaurant at the back. All are decked out in a minimalist style to allow the floor-to-ceiling windows to act as the focal point; and that they certainly do, giving way to gleaming glass skyscrapers flanking a central courtyard (particularly dazzling by night). The crowd, meanwhile, was as expected: suited-and-booted broker types fresh from the office, either conducting after-work meetings or wining and dining lithe young things more interested in expense accounts than eating anything.

Us not being one of them, we came very much armed with an appetite and were delighted to discover that the kitchen is headed up by none other than Alan Pickett — formerly of Michelin-starred Orrery (read our interview with him here, and our review of Orrery here). Featuring fabulous French fare at its finest, we opted for: starters of Scottish scallops with broad beans and soft herbs — succulent, tender and complimented perfectly by the vermouth and chive velouté — and South Devon crab raviolo with vine tomatoes and crab vinaigrette, which was pleasant enough but not particularly mindblowing; mains were honey-spiced Goosnarg duck with braised endive and port-marinated radish — cooked perfectly pink — and roast fillet of Hereford beef with sauté of morel mushrooms and roast bone marrow, proving that good things really do come to those who wait with meat that fell apart with one prod of the fork; wrapping things up nicely was the warm bitter chocolate tart (the Oreo cookie crumbs it came decorated with sold it to us) and a plate of gorgeous French cheese supplied by La Fromagerie on Moxton Street.

Perfect for power lunches and power dinners for powerful people — and for schmoozing couples who happen to find themselves in Canary Wharf for whatever reason — Plateau certainly has a lot to offer. Not least its breathtaking, Manhattan-esque views.
SITE: plateau-restaurant.co.uk
Buy Hg2 London here

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Hg2 | A Hedonist's Guide is a luxury city guide series coveted by travellers who value both style and substance when it comes to soaking up a city. Irreverent, inspired, and, above all, intelligent.

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